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domaine_leflaive [2021/03/29 07:36]
rayner.cheung [Background information]
domaine_leflaive [2022/10/30 02:03] (current)
rayner.cheung [2010]
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   * **Ed. Note:** For a decade, Domaine Leflaive was one of the very small group of producers who had virtually no premox problems. But beginning with the 2006 vintage, the Leflaive wines have had HUGE oxidation problems with a large percentage of the bottles oxidized. In the annual vintage assessment dinners, we encountered oxidized Leflaives fromt he 2006, 2007 and 2008 vintages. Domaine Leflaive went from one of the six most reliable white burgundies you could buy -- to one of the worst performers. Many of my friends and colleagues have stopped buying Leflaive altogether. Leflaive now acknowledges premox problems with the 2006, 2007 and 2008 vintages. Beginning with the 2014 vintage, Domaine Leflaive has begun using DIAM 30 closures. Hopefully, that will return Leflaive to the top tier of performers, but at this point I'm concerned about what we'll see from vintages 2009 through 2013 as these wines mature.   * **Ed. Note:** For a decade, Domaine Leflaive was one of the very small group of producers who had virtually no premox problems. But beginning with the 2006 vintage, the Leflaive wines have had HUGE oxidation problems with a large percentage of the bottles oxidized. In the annual vintage assessment dinners, we encountered oxidized Leflaives fromt he 2006, 2007 and 2008 vintages. Domaine Leflaive went from one of the six most reliable white burgundies you could buy -- to one of the worst performers. Many of my friends and colleagues have stopped buying Leflaive altogether. Leflaive now acknowledges premox problems with the 2006, 2007 and 2008 vintages. Beginning with the 2014 vintage, Domaine Leflaive has begun using DIAM 30 closures. Hopefully, that will return Leflaive to the top tier of performers, but at this point I'm concerned about what we'll see from vintages 2009 through 2013 as these wines mature.
-  * There have been market ​rumors for some time (since 2020, maybe earlier) that the domaine retasted all of its archives in response to the numerous complaints about serial premature oxidation of its wines starting with the 2005 vintage. Those bottles deemed to be in fine condition were topped up recorked with wax (or wax/​composite) capsules, & then released at a substantial premium into the market without comment beyond the implicit "certification" provided by the new capsules. I have seen (in Mar. 2021) a 2004 Bienvenues–Bâtard–Montrachet at a reputable retailer in Hong Kong that fits this description. It'​s ​nice to know that the domaine ​is profiting from the abysmal ​experience ​of at least 2 generations of wine collectors ​whose bottles of Leflaive grands & premiers ​cru had to be decanted into a drain. [Rayner Cheung]+  * There have been rumors for some time (since 2020, if not earlier) that the domaine retasted all of its archives in response to the numerous complaints about serial premature oxidation of its wines starting with the 2005 vintage. Those bottles deemed to be in fine condition were topped uprecorked, & sealed ​with wax (or wax/​composite) capsules, & then released at a substantial premium into the market without ​any comment beyond the implicit "assurance" provided by the new capsules. I have seen (in Mar. 2021) a 2004 Bienvenues–Bâtard–Montrachet at a reputable retailer in Hong Kong that fits this description, with a selling price equivalent to ~US$800. It'​s ​pretty cheeky ​that the domaine ​has turned into a handsome profit opportunity ​the abysmal ​experiences ​of at least 2 generations of customers, ​whose bottles of Leflaive grands & premiers ​crus had to be decanted into a drain. [Rayner Cheung]
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 ===== Winemaking Notes ===== ===== Winemaking Notes =====
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   * **Chevalier Montrachet**(May 2012): Not oxidized, pristine. (APDH)   * **Chevalier Montrachet**(May 2012): Not oxidized, pristine. (APDH)
   * **Chevalier Montrachet** (Jan 2016): Not oxidizied; young and in great shape (Mike Saviage)   * **Chevalier Montrachet** (Jan 2016): Not oxidizied; young and in great shape (Mike Saviage)
-  * **Chevalier–Montrachet** (Mar. 2021 – ): 1 btl not oxidized. Good color of green–tinged gold. Sensational wine in all respects, heaven in a glass. Smoky lime zest & white flowers in the nose. Glorious flavors of lime marmalade & orchard fruits on the palate. Lively acidity provides just the right balance to the richness of this wine. Reminiscent of the 1996 Chevalier (tasted in 2017) which had all of the same characteristics except that the acidity was overwhelming. From a lot of 2 purchased in Dec. 2013 from the auction platform of a reputable West Coast retailer. [Rayner Cheung]+  * **Chevalier–Montrachet** (Mar. 2021 – Jan. 2022): 2 btls not oxidized. Good color of green–tinged gold. Sensational wine in all respects, heaven in a glass. Smoky lime zest & white flowers in the nose. Glorious flavors of lime marmalade & orchard fruits on the palate. Lively acidity provides just the right balance to the richness of this wine. Reminiscent of the 1996 Chevalier (tasted in 2017) which had many of the same characteristics except that the acidity was overwhelming. From a lot of 2 purchased in Dec. 2013 from the auction platform of a reputable West Coast retailer. [Rayner Cheung]
   * **Meursault 1er Cru Sous le Dos d'​Âne**(21 Oct 2011): No sign of oxidation. [H. Horwitz]   * **Meursault 1er Cru Sous le Dos d'​Âne**(21 Oct 2011): No sign of oxidation. [H. Horwitz]
   * **Puligny**(July 2010):super (Adrian Latimer)   * **Puligny**(July 2010):super (Adrian Latimer)
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 ===== 2010 ===== ===== 2010 =====
  
-  * **Puligny-Montrachet** (Feb 2014): no oxidation. [TSim@rud] +  
-  * **Puligny Montrachet Pucelles**(Jan 2014): not oxidised [TSim@rud] +  ​
-  * **Puligny Montrachet Pucelles**(Sept 2020): Oxidised [Jammy Wine] +
-  ​* **Bienvenue Batard-Montrachet** (Feb 2014): not oxidized. [TSim@rud]+
   * **Batard Montrachet** (Aug 2013); no oxidation and a stunning tight wine[R Younger]   * **Batard Montrachet** (Aug 2013); no oxidation and a stunning tight wine[R Younger]
   * **Batard Montrachet** (Feb 2014); no oxidation and very young[TSim@rud]   * **Batard Montrachet** (Feb 2014); no oxidation and very young[TSim@rud]
 +  * **Bâtard–Montrachet** (Nov. 2021 – Jun. 2022): ​ 1 btl borderline oxidized + 1 btl fine. The good btl was pale to medium gold, with a floral nose complicated by mineralité. On the palate, a taste of dried peaches, citrus peel, & minerals. Similar in style to the 2005, but less sweet & less powerful. 13% ABV. From a lot of 2 purchased in May 2015 from the auction platform of a reputable West Coast retailer. [Rayner Cheung]
 +  * **Bienvenue Batard-Montrachet** (Feb 2014): not oxidized. [TSim@rud]
   * **Chevalier Montrachet** (Feb 2014): no oxidation. [TSim@rud]   * **Chevalier Montrachet** (Feb 2014): no oxidation. [TSim@rud]
 +  * **Puligny-Montrachet** (Feb 2014): no oxidation. [TSim@rud]
 +  * **Puligny–Montrachet "Les Combettes"​** (Jun. 2021 – Oct. 2022): 5 btls not oxidized + 1 btl advanced but drinkable. The good btls had an appropriate palish lemon yellow color. Decanting is recommended as it took > 30 mins to open up & to reveal floral complications to the citrus pith in the nose. Gained weight & sweetness from exotic fruit elements, again after plenty of air. Like the 2010 Pucelles, this wine is still at an early adolescent stage, at least insofar as btls with the right color are concerned. From a lot of 6 purchased in Aug. 2015 from the auction platform of a reputable West Coast retailer. [Rayner Cheung]
   * **Puligny Clavoillon** (Sept 2016): not oxidized but pretty advanced - from magnum no less (R DeAngelo)   * **Puligny Clavoillon** (Sept 2016): not oxidized but pretty advanced - from magnum no less (R DeAngelo)
 +  * **Puligny Montrachet Pucelles**(Jan 2014): not oxidised [TSim@rud]
 +  * **Puligny Montrachet Pucelles**(Sept 2020): Oxidised [Jammy Wine]
 +  * **Puligny–Montrachet "Les Pucelles"​** (May 2021 – Jun. 2022): 5 btls not oxidized + 1 btl amber gold in color, but the aromatics & flavors were quite fine. Powdered lemon & lime candy, stone, & a little musk in the nose. More citrus on the palate, together with peach pit & lemondrops. A very different style of Pucelles compared with something even as recent as the 2007 (which exhibited a more diverse range of fruit elements – see above), but this may reflect the vintage more than any change in winemaking approach, since comparable wines at comparable domaines are also exhibiting this citrus–heavy character. From a lot of 6 purchased in Aug. 2015 from the auction platform of a reputable West Coast retailer. [Rayner Cheung]
 +  ​
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 ===== 2011 ===== ===== 2011 =====
  
   * **Puligny Montrachet** (Sep 2014): no oxidation. @Le Bernardin [N. Lau]   * **Puligny Montrachet** (Sep 2014): no oxidation. @Le Bernardin [N. Lau]
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