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which_producers_are_most_and_least_affected2 [2019/10/08 23:12] doncornwell Update vintage references |
which_producers_are_most_and_least_affected2 [2022/06/13 03:04] (current) doncornwell |
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| ===== Some producers are clearly more affected than others ===== | ===== Some producers are clearly more affected than others ===== | ||
| - | \\ The oxidation which has been observed in the 1995 to 2011 vintages seems to vary widely among producers. Some producers have a very high incidence of oxidized bottles while others have very little. Because the producers’ performance with respect to the incidence of premature oxidation has varied over time, and because some producers have made considerable progress in combating premox, in this latest update (October 2019) I have primarily weighted the list based upon the producers’ performance in the vintages from 2001 through 2011.\\ \\ In my opinion [Ed. Don Cornwell], there appear to be five broad categories among producers.\\ \\ **Category I – Highest Premox Incidence Producers:** The first category is a group of producers whose rates of oxidation appear to be greater than one out of three bottles and, in a few cases, the incidence of oxidation approaches 100% by the time the wine is seven to eight years old. In my opinion, the producers who fall in this category of the highest incidence producers are (in alphabetical order): Blain-Gagnard, Droin [prior to 2011 switch to DIAM], Fontaine-Gagnard, Gagnard-Delegrange, Jadot [2000 to 2010 vintages only; 2011 switch to DIAM], Domaine Leflaive [2006-2013 vintages; 2014 switch to DIAM-previously a Category V producer], Matrot and Mikulski. The following additional producers were previously listed in this category based on their performance in the vintages from 1995 through 2002, but since I have not tasted many bottles from these producers in recent years, it is uncertain where they belong today: Guy Amiot, Colin-Deleger, Coutoux, Jouard, Juillot, Tessier and Verget. I list them here for the purpose of providing a cautionary warning.\\ \\ **Category II – Above-average Premox Incidence:** The second category is a group of producers who have unexplainable seemingly "random" oxidation but at what appears to be a clearly higher than normal or "above average" incidence. The producers who in my opinion presently fall in this category are: Henri Boillot, Bonneau du Martray, R&V Dauvissat, Drouhin, Fevre [prior 2009, when switched to DIAM], Antoine Jobard, JN Gagnard, Lafon [prior to 2013 switch to DIAM], Hubert Lamy, Latour, Maltroye, Le Moine, and Niellon.\\ \\ **Category III – Average Premox Incidence:** The third category is the largest group of producers for whom the oxidation incidence is "today's normal" or roughly 10-12%. There are far too many producers to name here individually, but you can figure it out by process of deduction given the other listed producers in Categories I, II, IV and V.\\ \\ **Category IV – Below Average Premox Incidence:** The fourth category is a group of producers who have lower than average incidence of premature oxidation (i.e. below 10% incidence). In some cases, the producer in question has had oxidation problems in only one or two particular vintages: Jacques Carillon [since 2002 - formerly a Category II producer], Colin-Morey, Leroy SA, Bernard Moreau, Marc Morey, Jean-Marc Pillot [since 2002 – formerly a Category II producer]and Roulot.\\ \\ **Category V: Lowest Premox Incidence** The fifth and final group of producers are those who have very little premature oxidation as a percentage of bottles opened and indeed seem to have no higher incidence of premature oxidation after 1994 than they did before, i.e., Coche-Dury, DRC, Leroy/D'Auvenay and Raveneau. | + | \\ The oxidation which has been observed in the 1995 to 2012 vintages seems to vary widely among producers. Some producers have a very high incidence of oxidized bottles while others have very little. Because the producers’ performance with respect to the incidence of premature oxidation has varied over time, and because some producers have made considerable progress in combating premox, in this latest update (June 2020) I have primarily weighted the list based upon the producers’ performance in the vintages from 2001 through 2011.\\ \\ In my opinion [Ed. Don Cornwell], there appear to be five broad categories among producers.\\ \\ **Category I – Highest Premox Incidence Producers:** The first category is a group of producers whose rates of oxidation (either notably advanced or overtly oxidized) appear to be greater than 40% by the time that the bottles are 7.5 years from the vintage and, in a few cases, the incidence of oxidation approaches 100% by that time. In my opinion, the producers who fall in this category of the highest incidence producers are (in alphabetical order):\\ \\ |
| + | Blain-Gagnard\\ | ||
| + | Henri Boillot [N.B. Just over 50% advanced or oxidized in our annual white burgundy dinners]\\ | ||
| + | Bouard-Bonnefoy\\ | ||
| + | Fontaine-Gagnard\\ | ||
| + | Gagnard-Delagrange\\ | ||
| + | Henri Germain\\ | ||
| + | Maltroye\\ | ||
| + | Matrot\\ | ||
| + | Mikulski\\ | ||
| + | |||
| + | **__Former Category I Producers to avoid in older vintages__**:\\ \\ | ||
| + | Droin [prior to 2011 switch to DIAM]\\ | ||
| + | Fevre [prior 2010 switch to DIAM]\\ | ||
| + | Jadot [2000 to 2010 vintages only; 2011 switch to DIAM]\\ | ||
| + | Domaine Leflaive [2006-2013 vintages; 2014 switch to DIAM]\\ | ||
| + | Montille [prior to 2009 switch to DIAM].\\ | ||
| + | |||
| + | **__Former Category I Producers to avoid in oldest vintages__** (I have no significant experience with these since 2002 vintage, but I add these former Category I producers as a cautionary note):\\ \\ | ||
| + | Guy Amiot\\ | ||
| + | Colin-Deleger\\ | ||
| + | Coutoux\\ | ||
| + | Jouard\\ | ||
| + | Juillot\\ | ||
| + | Tessier\\ | ||
| + | Verget | ||
| + | \\ \\ **Category II – Above-average Premox Incidence.** The second category is a group of producers who have unexplainable seemingly "random" oxidation but at what appears to be a clearly higher than normal or "above average" incidence. The producers who in my opinion presently fall in this category are:\\ \\ | ||
| + | Buisson-Charles\\ | ||
| + | Bruno Colin [high risk]\\ | ||
| + | R&V Dauvissat\\ | ||
| + | Drouhin\\ | ||
| + | Antoine Jobard [high risk]\\ | ||
| + | JN Gagnard\\ | ||
| + | Lafon [prior to 2013 switch to DIAM]\\ | ||
| + | Hubert Lamy [prior to switch to DIAM in 2016(?)]\\ | ||
| + | Louis Latour [high risk]\\ | ||
| + | Bonneau du Martray\\ | ||
| + | Le Moine [high risk]\\ | ||
| + | Pierre Morey\\ | ||
| + | Niellon\\ | ||
| + | Pernot [high risk prior to switch to DIAM in 2017] | ||
| + | \\ \\ **Category III – Average Premox Incidence.** The third category is the largest group of producers. There are too many to list here but the average at about 7.5 to 8 years after the vintage is that roughly 12% will be advanced or oxidized for wines closed with conventional cork. | ||
| + | \\ \\ **Category IV – Below Average Premox Incidence.** The fourth category is a group of producers who have lower than average incidence of premature oxidation (i.e. below 10% incidence). In some cases, the producer in question has had oxidation problems in only one or two particular vintages:\\ \\ | ||
| + | Jacques Carillon [since 2002 - Category II producer from 1995-2001 vintages]\\ | ||
| + | Colin-Morey\\ | ||
| + | Latour-Giraud [since 2008]\\ | ||
| + | Leroy SA\\ | ||
| + | Bernard Moreau\\ | ||
| + | Marc Morey\\ | ||
| + | Jean-Marc Pillot [since 2002 – Category II producer from 1995-2001 vintages]\\ | ||
| + | Roulot | ||
| + | \\ \\ **Category V: Lowest Premox Incidence.** The fifth and final group of producers are those who have the lowest premox risk. I have now split this group into two categories.\\ \\ | ||
| + | **__Lowest Risk Producers using conventional cork closures__** The first category of lowest risk producers includes producers who use natural cork closures and have very little premature oxidation as a percentage of bottles opened and indeed seem to have no higher incidence of premature oxidation after 1994 than they did before:\\ \\ | ||
| + | Coche-Dury\\ | ||
| + | DRC\\ | ||
| + | Leroy/D'Auvenay\\ | ||
| + | Raveneau\\ \\ | ||
| + | **__Lowest Risk Producers using DIAM (and the initial vintage for relatively complete use of DIAM)__:**\\ \\ | ||
| + | Roger Belland (2009)\\ | ||
| + | Bouchard Pere (2009)\\ | ||
| + | Jean-Marc Brocard (2012)\\ | ||
| + | Chanson (2013)\\ | ||
| + | Jean Charton (2020)\\ | ||
| + | Chateau de Meursault (2020)\\ | ||
| + | Chateau de Puligny Montrachet (2009)\\ | ||
| + | Fabien Coche (2018)\\ | ||
| + | Marc Colin (2016)\\ | ||
| + | Joseph Colin (2017)\\ | ||
| + | Jean Collet [Chablis] (2015, but excludes US imports through Kermit Lynch)\\ | ||
| + | Daniel Dampt (2014) (90% of production. Remainder under screwcap or natural cork, depending on the importer's preference.)\\ | ||
| + | Sebastian Dampt (2015?)\\ | ||
| + | Vincent Dampt (2015?)\\ | ||
| + | de Bellene and Roche de Bellene (2011)\\ | ||
| + | Droin (2011)\\ | ||
| + | William Fevre (2010)\\ | ||
| + | Guffens-Heynen (2011)\\ | ||
| + | Antonin Guyon (2018)\\ | ||
| + | Maison Harbour (2013)\\ | ||
| + | Heitz-Lochardet (2015)\\ | ||
| + | Jadot (2011)\\ | ||
| + | Lafon (2013)\\ | ||
| + | Domaine de Lambrays (2020)\\ | ||
| + | Hubert Lamy (2017 for 80% of production; 2019 for 100% of production)\\ | ||
| + | Domaine Leflaive (2014) [but be somewhat wary of big cut in SO2 use in 2015]\\ | ||
| + | Olivier Leflaive (2012)\\ | ||
| + | Benjamin Leroux (2020) [Note: only 20 ppm free SO2 with Diam 30]\\ | ||
| + | Long-Depaquit (Bichot) (2018)\\ | ||
| + | Christian Moreau (2017) (Excludes Clos des Hospices which continues to be closed with cork)\\ | ||
| + | Louis Moreau [Chablis] (2016)\\ | ||
| + | Montille (also Deux Montille and Maison Montille) (2009)\\ | ||
| + | Meurgey-Croses (2019)\\ | ||
| + | Hugues Pavelot (2019)\\ | ||
| + | Domaine de Pavillon (Bichot) (2018)\\ | ||
| + | Paul Pernot (2017)\\ | ||
| + | F&L Pillot (2010)\\ | ||
| + | Prieur (2013)\\ | ||
| + | Rapet (2017)\\ | ||
| + | Tollot-Beaut (2017)\\ | ||
| + | Vocoret et Fils [Chablis] (2015)\\ | ||